The rust belt. Does synthetic oil that
is tainted with rust break down quicker because the rust in there has
a more transferable oxidative effect?
So the bottle says that it lasts 20k?
Never do that. Never let it go anywhere that long in new cars. Why
not? It is horrible advice. Go 3k.
So when the oil gels in there because
it is old and cruddy does it affect the hydraulic tensioners and gum
them up and prevent them from working correctly?
And then lets say you run a cleaner
through the engine to remove the gum. Is the hydraulic tensioner
then loose worn, whereby it will not hold tension at low rpm low oil
pressure.
So the next part relates to a US Car
makers recall of trucks. They either put a new engine in them
because they were ruined or they inspected the engine and recommended
the owner put a heavier weight oil in them, I believe from 0 w 30 to
0 w 40.
And what about 5 w 30 versus 5 w 40 .
Similar to the comparison between 0 w 30 and 0 w 40 for the Chevy
Silverado truck?
And so you wonder if the parts that
failed with the thinner oil were made in the U.S.A? And I also
wonder if there are people hired as U.S. Engineers who have no
allegiance to our Democracy?
So I would ask you this. Take 5 w 30
versus 5 w 40. At standard room temperature which is thicker, more
viscosity? Can you tell by moving each the same about in a glass
jar? Can you feel it between your fingers wearing rubber gloves?
Can you see it is thicker?
So what makes it thicker at higher
temperatures? What specific ingredient?
Now I was an associate Specialty
Chemical Analyst and I was talking to a VP of a co. And I can't tell
you what they sold. But he confided in me with regard to the lineup
which seemed like it was highly specialized with certain additives
for this one and such and such. He said to me, “You know the
chemicals are all the same?”
But what am I getting at.
Why in the h3ll would you ever tell a
United States Citizen their oil is good to 20,000 miles in a car? It
is going to junk that car!
And it is the oil company that is doing
that. Making that statement. Why?
Because you didn't believe in our form
of Government? After all you are non working class that just taps
your money straight out of the ground. And therefore you want the
United States Automobile industry to fail? Again for the same
reason. You say that they would lose money in the process? It
wouldn't matter if they toppled a democracy! Money wouldn't matter.
They would have power and that would equate to money. Ownership of
that tap would be money. Less demand just raise the price.
So indeed I once read that 3 oil
company executives came up from the South and threatened JFK two
weeks before he was assassinated. So that is where I get this tie in
here.
*****'
So in order to get antique status as a
car it has to be 20 years old. What if United States cars had to be
warrantied for 20 years in line with that? I mean, who need to spend
all that money and have all kinds of problems with reliability?
And was meeting higher emissions
standards the nail in the coffin for U.S. Auto makers? Some how
Japan kept rolling along. But the U.S. Seems to have tombstones of
troubles with their cars during this era? Their cars were made
smaller. Because they are smaller? It is like buying a shirt made
overseas, it is supposed to be 2x and it fits tight like a Medium?
But if you wanted to bring down our
Democracy you would choke off our mobility? I mean could there be
electric car tech that could go 2000 miles on a charge? Or are we
going to get that technological plateau argument? I will tell you
about solar energy, and then end this article or diatribe or whatever
you call it. So when I was a boy I had a toy. It had a solar cell
the size of a Silver Dollar and it powered a motor with a propeller
on it while in the sun. It had no battery. Now there are solar
powered gable fans. The electric motor is about the same size as the
motor in your refrigerator. And it is stated that of everything in
your house the refrigerator uses the most electricity. But that
gable fan motor is powered by a solar panel that is about 14” by
14”. So figure it out. Don't try and argue in your thinking.
Just figure it out. Don't hold stubborn to a stroke. Just figure it
out.
******'
Those three alphanumeric mean it is multi-grade (Many Viscosity). Boy doesn't that sound like a Hokus Pokus sale being made to natives? Get your Many Viscosity Oil here.
https://www.usedcars.com/advice/maintenance/what-do-the-numbers-on-oil-mean
But lets look at viscosity numbers on a
can of oil. The number before the W equals cold weather performance.
The number after the W equals ….how well it performs when the
engine gets hot? So oil does get thinner when hot.
The smaller the first number the
thinner the oil is and the more it will flow easily at startup. The
W actually means Winter.
But how is multi-viscosity achieved in
oil?
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+it+multiviscosity+achieved
“Multi-viscosity oils, also known as
multi-grade oils, are achieved through the addition of viscosity
index improvers (VIIs), which are polymers that modify the oil's
viscosity at different temperatures.”
So polymers is the key word above.
Polymers equal plastics?
General Google Answer.
“Yes, all plastics are polymers, but
not all polymers are plastics. Plastics are a specific type of
polymer, usually synthetic, that can be molded or shaped. Other types
of polymers, like natural materials such as cellulose or proteins,
are not considered plastics.”
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=are+polymers+plastics
According to https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=17477
So lets say that you have a 0 w 40 oil.
The 0 means it is very thin for cold weather and will flow quickly?
But is there an instance whereby that might not be true? For example
rust oxidation in the oil, could that cause it to cold sludge
quicker? But 0 w 40. So the 40 means it is thicker at hotter
temperatures in the engine. So how do you get from thin to thick at
hotter, when oil gets thin when hotter? And was is the instance or
residue formation because of that? So you would answer me that those
are superchemicals and I just don't understand the issue? It isn't a
pure oil any more. It has something else in it. So it has to be a
base of a very thin synthetic oil and the additives in it are what
make it thicker or perform better at hotter temperatures?
So I had a two stroke outboard that ran
on synthetic oil mixed in. And the fumes of that were terrible.
What was burning?
Is it the same resin that is in epoxy?
It created the same sickness. Not a lot of people can work with
Epoxy for too long before getting sick. I am just making that
assertion. Again, IDK what you think about it.
Ever drive your car up a hill on a
freeway? Just head West from Milwaukee and you will. And synthetic
oil in the maze chamber built into the valve cover then finds its way
through the pc valve and is burned in the engine? And it is that
same sickening smell. And if you can find a place to install an oil
catch can you may have solved the problem.
I tell you, I had to vent this. I
don't care if you think critically of it.
So the point here is that something
isn't being made correctly. And there is no valid authority
oversight. Who knew.
So you add a polymer to an oil that
gets thicker as the oil gets hotter? Because it expands and becomes
gooey? And then when the oil cools it is no longer gooey? Oh you
would say it doesn't get thicker. It is just a protective effect
that equates to increased viscosity at higher temperatures. Doesn't
it seem like gobbley gook to you?
What if it just means this, they put
something in the oil that prevents it from burning at higher
temperatures? Now what would that mean.
So is there a cycle effect to this?
And how many cycles can it handle before it breaks down? Can it
still be thin oil, and hold a lot of dirt, but...
Are you trying to tell me that 5 quarts
of oil can hold 20,000 miles of dirt in them? (no mention of oil filter clogging or reduced flow rate) Perhaps that says it
best. Come on lab coat guy, pose your counterargument. You gave up
didn't you!
© 2025 Thomas Paul Murphy
This is all pure conjecture.
So you heated something in it up and that thickened and then when the oil cooled that which was heated and thicker cooled back into suspension? Under what circumstances?
I wonder if anyone has ever made a successful claim (warranty of specific use or purpose) on that? (You can't prove anything unless you have a billion bucks and nobody can prove anything against you if you have a billion bucks? And you got your billion bucks by making hokus pokus statements like that?
You know, if you think about what I just wrote above doesn't it seem like there are a lot of issues Americans could make a claim on?
I am not going to lie to you, there is a group of people that I absolutely can't stand.